Bright ’n’ boozy

Sassafras cocktail, Canon East Sacramento

Inspired by a molasses and sassafras drink one of the bartenders had in Tulum, Mexico, this adult version ($12) of the classic soda is as far away from an A&W Root Beer as East Sac is from … Tulum. Boozy but exquisitely balanced, this combo of rum, Pernod (an anise-flavored liqueur), lime and soda dances and bubbles on the tongue. One second, bright with lime, the other, deep and woodsy from the sassafras bitters. It’s great as an aperitif or digestif/dessert, just don’t ask for a scoop of ice cream on top. 1719 34th Street,