If, as our governor says, we are a capital brimming with girlie men, we may as well embrace our softer side at the newly opened Bountiful Country Market. Bountiful is feminine and sophisticated, like French perfume. The owner took a corner brick building that had been empty for years and transformed it into a cafe offering very good entrees, sandwiches, salads and baked goods, along with tables full of pricey ceramic housewares and foodstuffs. The menu, all prepared on the site, changes daily. We enjoyed the chicken-salad sandwich on sourdough-walnut bread offered one day, and we came back for a pork sandwich served with spicy mayo and cheddar on a soft French roll. The baked goods, such as apple strudel, apricot-rhubarb pastry and chocolate chip-coconut cookies compare favorably with the finest bakeries in town. Who knows? Maybe even the governor would enjoy a trip to Bountiful. 1301 I Street, (916) 438-3223.