Specialists are an admirable sort, doing one thing and doing it well. Joe Laszlo, of Laszlo’s Gourmet Smoked Fish, is one such specialist. He excels at his craft by using a simple formula: The fish is fresh and the preparation is simple. He marinates the fish overnight in a mixture of apple juice, soy sauce, brown sugar and molasses. The fish is hickory-smoked over low heat right on the premises. The finished product is exquisitely subtle, balancing smoky, salty and sweet. The delicate fish flavor shines through. Varieties, depending on seasonal availability, include tuna, prawns, salmon, sturgeon, thresher shark, lox, shrimp, mahi mahi, halibut, scallops and mussels. Laszlo charges $23.80 per pound, or you can choose to order a sandwich of smoked fish, bagel and cream cheese. And because he’s a specialist, you can be sure he won’t sell you a piece past its prime. 1100 Front Street No. 140 in Old Sacramento, (916) 492-9089.