Uncompromising. That’s Zelda’s Pizza. Want to eat during prime time? Prepare to wait. A sign advises calling in orders if you don’t like waiting. Remember that next time. Eventually, you’ll get a table, where another sign says that pizza requires a 30-minute wait, minimum. The menu is to the point and very American-Italian. Order drinks, some garlic bread, a pizza. Survey the un-trendy interior: black cottage-cheese ceiling, multicolored Christmas lights and an utter absence of windows. We asked our waitress with the seen-it-all expression, “Can we get a refill on the kids’ sodas?” She replied, “Shouldn’t you wait until the pizza comes?” She was right. We didn’t want the kids to fill up on soda. The waitress brought us one of Zelda’s famous, Chicago-style, in-the-pan pizzas: thick, crunchy crust; zesty sauce; and gooey cheese. Delicious. Worth the wait. No, they don’t take credit cards—cash only. As we said, Zelda’s is uncompromising, and that’s why we keep going back. 1415 21st Street, (916) 447-1400.