We don’t know much about Thomas Ryan, the Irishman who opened a saloon at the corner of 10th and S streets in 1895. What we do know is that his bar is still going strong under the sturdy name of Old Ironsides. Were he alive today, Ryan might be interested in dropping in for lunch. Given the Irish preference for bland food, he’d probably order the meatloaf sandwich. But wait—this meatloaf is anything but bland. Ironsides jacks up the flavor with garlic and sun-dried tomato, places a thick slab between slices of grilled sourdough spread with pesto mayonnaise and serves it up with a mound of waffle-cut fries. Thomas Ryan would be amazed—that his saloon is the oldest in town, and that meatloaf has made a grand evolution into the 21st century. 1901 10th St., 443-9751. Lunch: Monday-Friday.