Most state government cafeteria food is listless and forgettable. One notable exception is the State Capitol’s basement eatery. Griselda Barajas, owner of downtown’s Texas Mexican Restaurant, recently took over the Capitol’s primary concession (now known as Tex Mex At The Capitol), and her improvements have received bipartisan approval. Now anyone, employees and visitors alike, can enjoy Barajas’ authentic dishes without needing to brave the lunchtime crush at her restaurant. Making a regular appearance on the menu is a tangy soup with homemade broth and huge chunks of stewed chicken; chicana with tender pieces of beef braised with onions and peppers; and a savory tinga of stewed and shredded pork. The salsa cruda is always fresh with crunchy onions and the Mexican rice is some of the best in town. Conservatives approve of the $4.95 lunch specials; liberals applaud the cafeteria’s unionized status and everyone can appreciate the cafeteria’s victory over mediocrity.