Transcendent berries

Strawberries and cream, Localis

photo illustration by HAYLEY DOSHAY

Localis recently opened under the talented watch of chef Christopher Barnum, who came down from the high hills of Roseville at Cibo 7. I had a meal there that was near perfect, and if I had time I would give the whole thing a soliloquy worthy of Proust. But for now, let's just talk about the dessert: a rendition of strawberries and cream ($9). Strawberries, both raw and roasted, are served with purple shiso, a delicate panna cotta and a delightful little serving of strawberry sorbet. It sounds simple, and it is. It's the eloquent execution that's so transcendent. 2031 S Street,