Transcendent berries

Localis recently opened under the talented watch of chef Christopher Barnum, who came down from the high hills of Roseville at Cibo 7. I had a meal there that was near perfect, and if I had time I would give the whole thing a soliloquy worthy of Proust. But for now, let's just talk about the dessert: a rendition of strawberries and cream ($9). Strawberries, both raw and roasted, are served with purple shiso, a delicate panna cotta and a delightful little serving of strawberry sorbet. It sounds simple, and it is. It's the eloquent execution that's so transcendent. 2031 S Street, www.localissacramento.com.