Spring sweetness

Delta Asparagus Pizza, Paragary’s Midtown

Illustration by Maria Ratinova

The asparagus grown in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta is widely considered to be some of the best in the world. And the asparagus pizza on Paragary’s spring menu is an excellent way to experience it. I expected it shaved, but it sits on the pie in thumb-sized chunks. For that reason I expected some bitterness, but it is as sweet as any green thing you’ve ever tasted. Mild fontina (and not a whole lot of it), roasted shallots and miatake mushrooms set up each bite of asparagus perfectly. The Delta asparagus season generally runs through the end of May, so don’t delay.