Pro-bro and pro-vegan

Illustration by Sarah Hansel

The atmosphere at Broderick Roadhouse is pro-bro, and the menu is meat-centric, what with its lamb and bison burgers. But it’s also vegan-friendly with two dishes that don’t require subtractions or substitutions: the vegan mac ’n’ cheese ($8) and the No Egg Salad Sandwich ($11)—although the latter engenders a quandary of why anyone would want an egg salad sandwich, especially a vegan. My server didn’t recommend it, talking me into a burger with a housemade vegan patty instead. The veggie patty was soft, sweetish and carrot-dominated, and the mac ’n’ cheese was neither macaroni nor (faux) cheesy, but was smoky penne sprinkled with vegan bacon bits. It’s great that Broderick is vegan-inclusive, but with other restaurants’ excellent similar offerings nearby—such as Nido’s nut burger or the Porch Restaurant and Bar’s seasonal mac and cheese—plant-based diners may try it out of curiosity, but likely won’t return for more. Broderick is at 1820 L Street in Midtown and 319 Sixth Street in West Sacramento.