Much ado about Hullabaloo

Hullabaloo 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel, Grocery Outlet

Illustration by HOLLY GERHARD

To the nice woman I met in the Grocery Outlet wine aisle last week: I am so, so sorry for letting the secret out on this one. The Hullabaloo 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel ($6) is made by Nine North Wines out in Napa Valley, but the fruit is sourced from Lodi. Aromas of stewed fruits and smoky vanilla yield dried cranberry and medium tannins on the palate. Outside of Grocery Outlet, this wine’ll usually put you back $15, so put the extra cash toward a pairing of barbecued rib-eye steak. 1700 Capitol Avenue,