Spring this year seemed long in coming and extra poky, with tantalizing warm days—then cold winds or drizzle as soon as we’d all gotten out the grills for the year. Last weekend at the farmers’ market, though, the first cherries popped up—still a little too bright red and not as sweet as they’ll be soon, but temptingly finger-staining anyway—as well as local artichokes from Elk Grove’s KLM Ranches. Sweet, purple on the outside and heavy, the variety is called “kiss of burgundy,” and they’ll only be at the market for three or four more weeks, the farmer told me. “The heart of those is like a steak,” one guy working behind the table told me. They’re also bringing yellow dried canario beans to market (a treat, as locally raised beans are hard to find). The other thing I’m addicted to these days? Tender, just-swollen red spring onion bulbs, halved and grilled. I think the grill is out for good now.