Loco no more

illustration By mark stivers

Toreros Restaurante

2326 J St.
Sacramento, CA 95816

It feels like Taco Loco Taqueria, located at 2326 J Street, was a staple of the J block inasmuch as, say, jerk bicyclists riding on the sidewalk and Downtown James Brown outside of Harlow’s on a Friday night. But now, Taco Loco is gone; enter Toreros Restaurante, a quaint but similarly funky restaurant-style Mexican joint that serves breakfast in addition to not-so-unusual, but suburban-friendly, fare. They’re still feeling things out, but this past week I sampled the chile relleno—which always serves as a good read on a Mexican place. The verdict: Not bad. Good, actually: a long, roundish and not-flat pasilla chili stuffed with hot cheese and lightly battered without that reprehensible stiff and spongy texture. There’s still the full bar for you drinkers, and dinner for two runs $25-$30.