Korean delights

Illustration by mark stivers

Kim’s Mart

636 Fourth St.
Davis, CA 95616

If you’re sick of the same old Cali-style sushi, Kim’s Mart in Davis (636 Fourth Street) has a spicy tuna roll that is more akin to a tuna sandwich—complete with lettuce and red onion. Koreans have their own style of sushi, called kimbap, in which rice is flavored with sesame oil, not rice vinegar, and fillings are usually cooked. Kim’s also has intriguing takeout delights, including chokingly spicy, teeny soft-shelled crabs; varieties of kimchi; and a serviceable japchae (glossy cellophane noodles stir-fried in sesame oil with vegetables). They also have pork and kimchi stews. I sampled a delectable chicken soup that had large juicy chunks of boneless thigh meat and a chili-laced, fragrant broth. My man-sized appetite did not prevent me from gleaning four full meals out of $20 worth of food. Kim’s has all this and a bag of Calbee shrimp chips, but (unfortunately) no seating. If it did, it would instantly vault into the top tier of Davis restaurants.