Indian to-go

Quick, what kind of food do you think of when you hear the words “sprawling shopping center in Natomas”? If the answer wasn’t tasty, spicy Indian stews and curries with fresh-baked garlic naan on the side, think again, and then head out to Mati’s Indian Express (3880 Truxel Road, (916) 285-0532, www.matisindianexpress.com) to get some. It’s a cute, spare little shop, with turmeric and neon-lime walls, and a lineup of several basic items available in rice-bowl combos: I liked the savory, rich, chocolate-brown lamb curry, the dusky aloo gobi enlivened with the rough crunch of whole spices and the brightly tomatoey butter chicken. The char-edged, floppy, butter-garlicky naan was lovely for sopping up the sauces, and they also make a big, sweet mango lassi. Not sure you’ll like it? Heat levels are stated for all the dishes—and you can request a sample before you order. Mati’s pretty much defines cheap and cheerful—and they cater, too.