Humble pockets

In North Highlands, there’s a supermarket called European Delicatessen, and its deli is a Russian smorgasbord. “It’s all Russian!” said the clerk with a smile. Let’s single out the pirozhki (round puff pastries) behind the glass: The cabbage and meat varieties ($1.99 each) make for a filling meal: Fiber from the cabbage (it’s vegetarian), protein from the chicken and pork, and substance from what looks like fried maple bar bread that surrounds each filling. Spices and onions in the center add to the deliciousness. One bite takes you from a soft, chewy cushion of dough and reveals the robust surprise inside. 4319 Elkhorn Boulevard, Suite B.