This low-carb craze is getting out of hand. We recently visited , which has taken over a space on Freeport Boulevard that formerly was occupied by a faux 1950s diner. After settling into the chrome and Formica dining room, we ordered the house specialty, birria, which is steamed goat meat. Out comes the plate, laden with about a pound of tender, shredded goat—no rice and no beans. Talk about low-carb! We said a prayer for Dr. Atkins and delved right into the matter at hand. We found the birria rather mild-tasting on its own but liked how Roberta’s dressed it up with a punchy, deep-brown-red mole sauce. Closer inspection of the menu indicated that we could have ordered the dish with rice and beans, and we couldn’t resist the homemade corn tortillas. Guess we’re not ready to chuck the food pyramid yet. 5635 Freeport Boulevard, (916) 422-2878.