Ah, the golden leaves, the crisp night air. Unlike those poor folks in Southern California, who have a dry season followed by a short, slightly damp season, Sacramento has several distinct signs that portend the arrival of winter. popping up in the cold case is a perfect example. This hearty, reddish ale, available just a few short months of the year, is brewed with three kinds of hops and three types of malt. Its heady, complex flavor goes well with winter fare or a living-room fire. This is not one to guzzle; the 6.8-percent alcohol content demands attention, respect and moderation. Chico-based Sierra Nevada has been able to maintain the high quality of its beers even while becoming one of the nation’s largest craft brewers. Yes, you can buy Celebration Ale in Southern California, but it just doesn’t have the same appeal in the shade of a palm tree.