At many Chinese restaurants, chow fun (fun refers to the wide rice noodles) often is bland chow, with flaccid noodles and mild sauce. Far East Café goes a different route when you specify the Si Jue chow fun, a spicy variation that we have not found anywhere else. Far East has been doing Si Jue the same way for years. The dish comes with beef unless you specify otherwise. Fat noodles, fused into chewy stacks, get a flavorful sear in the wok. Chunks of yellow onion are cooked so that they still carry a bit of a sting. Big slices of red and green bell peppers add color and crunch. Fermented black-bean sauce brings spiciness to the fore, and if that doesn’t deliver enough heat, dip your chopsticks into the Chinese mustard. Si Jue won’t be to everybody’s taste, but it sure puts some fun into chow fun. 5014 Freeport Boulevard, (916) 456-9835.