Chef Boyardee deserves our thanks. By learning how bad ravioli can be, we can fully appreciate how good ravioli can be. At Vinciguerra’s Ravioli Co. in the Amador County seat of Jackson, the staff cranks out small pillows of the delicate, filled pasta on a 115-year-old press. A box (just less than a pound of pasta) sells for $6.50, and you have a choice of meat, cheese or spinach. The ravioli come frozen, which is helpful in transporting them safely back to the metropolis. The frozen ravioli hold together well when you drop them in boiling water, and we found that they cooked up beautifully. You can dress them in Vinciguerra’s own sauce, although we found that melted butter was a great companion to allow the delicate flavor to come through. So, Chef Boyardee, thank you. Now get out of the way of Chef Vinciguerra. 225 Sutter Street in Jackson, (209) 223-7654. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.