It’s that time of year for toasts, what with graduations—from pre-school to PhD.—and, you know, Uncle Billy making parole. So, it’s appropriate, then, that artisanal champagne creators Armand de Brignac mailed their “Blanc de Blancs” cuvee. Yes, real champagne from Champagne, France. And the verdict? Subtle, not sweet. And even though it’s made with Chardonnay grapes, there’s none of that buttery or oak-y Northern California mouthfeel going on. Nope. Just 100 percent bubbly goodness. Chin-chin to that! Pick it up at any local fine-wine retailer.