Triumphant brunch

Fried chicken & cheddar biscuit, Roxy Restaurant and Bar

Illustration by Brian Breneman

I have gone to Roxy for brunch three times in the last few weeks. I admit it—I'm smitten. Brunch is usually a restaurant horror show of surly servers, tipsy patrons and greasy food slathered in broken hollandaise. Not so at Roxy. On a recent visit, I made sweet love to a plate of fried chicken and flaky cheddar biscuits topped with a sunny side egg ($14). The runny yolk sauced the plate, while an arugula salad served with pickled red onions and peaches washed away any bacon-induced brunch guilt. 2381 Fair Oaks Boulevard,