Old school balls

Meatball sandwich, Italian Importing Company

Illustration by serene lusano

Meatballs are hot. They're showing up on menus all over town, from pizza places to Turkish bistros. But for an old-school comfort classic, you've got to try the meatball sandwich ($6.75) from the Italian Importing Company. The place is so vintage, it's practically a time warp, and the meatballs are traditionally made. First, they line a yeasty roll with provolone so the sauce doesn't sog the bun, then they fill it with hefty, fine-textured meatballs and gravy (a.k.a. marinara). The finishing touch: a little Parmesan. It's not so big that it'd kill you to eat the whole thing, so mangia! 1827 J Street; (916) 442-6678.