At Pieces Pizza by the Slice (21st Street and Capitol Avenue) they offer as condiments an unequalled selection of hot sauces: some 18 different varieties spread out on a cafeteria tray near the napkins. Experiment with the said heat options on one of Josh Ploeg’s tasty vegan calzones—eggplant, pesto, soy chicken. The calzones run $6.50, and they’re well-spiced and come with a vegetable filling. But it’s the dense-but-airy crust itself that makes the pie. Any of the hot sauces will do on their own—or try all of them at once, like I did.