Gumbo’s back, tell a friend

Celestin’s Gumbo, Celestin’s Restaurant

Longtime Sacramentans may remember Celestin’s, which filled bellies with warm gumbo from 1983 until 2011 in Midtown. They’re back for their third opening, this time in a smaller space with counter service. Its namesake gumbo ($21) is the meatiest: hunks of chicken, rock cod, scallops, shrimp and perfectly smokey sausage and red bell peppers are mixed with a roux, which was too mild for the medium spice order but still damn good. With seven gumbos to try (including a veggie option), and an extended menu, it looks like a promising comeback. 3610 McKinley Boulevard, (916) 258-4060.