It’s chilly and rainy. Abandoned Christmas trees lie in the gutter, grimly awaiting the municipal claw. Last month’s cheery greetings have been replaced with this month’s debts. A needed anecdote to all this dreariness is a pugnacious bottle of red that won’t bust a post-holiday budget. Coming to the rescue—Bogle Vineyards’ recently released 2000 Old Vine Zinfandel (about $10). The Delta winery plucked the grapes from the 30- to 90-year-old hillside vineyards of Amador County. These aged vines look like old, gnarled trees. Pull the cork. The eye admires the deep ruby color. The nose is tickled by the aroma of berries, anise and pepper. The palate snaps to attention, savoring the brambly taste of blackberry and black cherry. A stew bubbles on the stove. The clouds part, the mood lifts and the New Year suddenly looks up.