Deconstructed dessert

illustration by MARK STIVERS

To the bemusement and anticipation of many, Lounge on 20 cleverly relaunched itself as Lounge on 2.0 a few weeks ago. The lounge is redesigned into an eclectic dining room with plenty of swagger, and chef Pajo Bruich is offering up inventive and incredibly flavorful options.

Not to ignore Bruich, I was more intrigued at the work of my previous pastry instructor, pastry chef Elaine Baker. Unlike her work at Grange (which focused on more reconstructed, upscale American classics), her partnership with Bruich has encouraged her to branch out into the world of molecular gastronomy and architectural design of the saccharine sort.

An epic carrot coconut cake is served with a carrot fluid gel that’s curious and engaging. A cream-cheese frosting spiked with guava nectar, a novel twist for a carrot-cake, pairs perfectly. You may also find yourself somewhat addicted to the pink peppercorn crisps served along the strawberry parfait with strawberry sorbet and vanilla bean mascarpone.

For those looking for something a little more classic, house-made “pop tarts” and delightfully puffy brioche doughnut holes that taste like sunny Sunday mornings are available.