Choke on this


Illustration by Analie Foland

Just as many Americans associate avocados with California, they think we eat artichokes daily. Why wouldn’t we, with hundreds of acres of the spiny thistles growing here? Well, there’s the drudge factor. To get to the tender heart of the artichoke, you must bushwhack through the tough leaves and frilly choke first. Once conquered, the artichoke adds an earthy sweetness to salads and antipasti. Baby artichokes are tender enough to eat whole and taste best roasted with plenty of garlic and lemon. The Romans revered artichokes, and the Mafia once monopolized it in New York, so show a little respect.