Chef's choice, your decision

Michael Thiemann’s new, all-vegetarian spot Mother (1023 K Street) ignites a whole lot of debate. Is it really as revolutionary as a certain well-read Sacramento food critic says? The best way to decide is to head over for dinner, when Thiemann offers 10 dishes for $40-$50. At least two people at your table need to participate—or suck it up and eat double the grub by yourself—but the payoff is massive. It’s an always-changing chef’s choice, served in a similar fashion to Korean banchan—eight plates grace your table all at once, followed by dessert. Highlights on a recent evening include a creamy “polenta” made of cauliflower with more cauliflower; grilled pineapple slices with fried shallots and jalapeño; perfectly fried, lemony okra; and a deadly apple pie with flake salt and cheddar cheese.