Farmhouse ales and saisons are some of the more intriguing styles to gain popularity in the past few years—they run the gamut of funky and sour to smooth and crisp, and can be divisive. Taking their name from the instrument of jazz legend Charles Mingus, Upright Brewing has specialized in farmhouse ales since 2009, offering many adventurous takes on a seasonal style that originated in a French region of Belgium in the 19th century (saison is French for “season”). The Portland, Ore., brewery has defied the city’s IPA-heavy beer landscape, and with great success. Its best known are four year-round options, which are numbered for their starting gravity in Belgian brewing degrees—the Four is a smooth and drinkable option, while the Seven is a stronger, modern twist on the style. Upright is still nestled in the basement of a commercial building in north Portland, but the secret’s out as its beers are now being distributed in several western states. This is one of the finest farmhouse breweries around.