Yay, meat!

illustration by MARK STIVERS

Hooray for Kupros Bistro and its adoption of off-beat meats! I applaud the bravery it takes to put rabbit on the menu. Yes, plenty of restaurants offer tripe, tongue, head cheese and many other delicious animal parts that are often ignored. However, these are usually found in Vietnamese, Mexican or Chinese restaurants. Rarely are they offered with such mercurial forethought, in such prodigious amounts, and in such American and European fashions as chef John Gurnee has done. Duck confit, Reuben sandwiches, grilled octopus, bone marrow and potted rabbit (much like a rillette) are all welcome and successful. For the most part, many eaters seem to shy away from such proteins, often deeming them wrong. These animals are seen as too cute or are kept as pets. Other people say there is no reason to eat a bunny; beef is just fine enough. Why do some animals get a pass and others don’t to these diners? I don’t get it. So props to you chefs serving all of God’s creatures, from razor clam to squirrel. I salute you and await to see what further surprises you bring!