Reptilian rinds

Cherimoyas

Illustration by Sarah Hansel

What are those odd green fruits that look like they’re covered in scales? Not dragon fruit, ironically, but cherimoyas. Native to South America, these tropical fruits have a mild, sweet flavor like banana-pineapple custard. They should appear in markets beginning now and lasting through April or May, making for a nice alternative to the ubiquitous winter citrus. Pick out the large black seeds and puree the interior to make fragrant sorbet or granita. Or try adding cherimoya to a smoothie with avocado and mint for a green surprise.