Pile of good

Sucio Fries, Adamo’s Kitchen

Illustration by Serene Lusano

Sometimes you need a heap feast. No decorum, just a pile. It’s easy to go for the nachos, but so few chefs put any thought into their platters. How are you going to get a burly stack of foodstuffs that’s actually crafted with care? Adamo’s Kitchen, which is somewhere between upscale and a place I can afford to eat at, comes through hard with a sophisticated touch on the Sucio Fries ($9). Crispy, thick fries are slathered in a mild poblano sauce and sour cream, then smothered with cheddar, bacon, roasted peppers and caramelized onions. It’s as sophisticated as you’re going to get with a mound like this. 2107 P Street, www.adamoskitchen.com.