Pasta flashback

The first time I ever went to Ella Dining Room & Bar, I ordered the pappardelle topped with a poached egg. Back then, the put-an-egg-on-it idea wasn’t ubiquitous yet. The yolk mixing with fresh pasta and lemony butter felt like a revelation. Turns out, Nancy Selland’s dish was debuted at the Kitchen before becoming a short-term staple at Ella. Now, a simpler—and, at $10.50, much cheaper—version is available at OBO’, with crispy shards of prosciutto and eggy tagliatelle. With all that butter, it is quite rich, but try your best to save room for a cream puff. 3145 Folsom Boulevard, http://oboitalian.com.