When I think of California cuisine, I often think of the California roll, the Korean taco and the so-called Chinese chicken salad. Then, I immediately get angry that most Asian food has to be radically altered from its traditional recipe just to be deemed “acceptable” by the hegemonic American palate. Ironically, I'm also a big Asian-fusion fan—including the three aforementioned dishes—when it's done right. As such, I was both excited and upset when two new Asian-fusion places popped up in town recently: Wrap N’ Roll Sushi Burrito (www.wrapnrollsushiburrito.com), which launched last year in Elk Grove and opened on April 1 in the former TreyBCakes spot at 1801 L Street (see “Foodie fusion” by Janelle Bitker, SN&R Food Stuff, March 13). The much-buzzed-about place serves giant burritolike sushi rolls with raw fish and other ingredients wrapped up in seaweed. And there's also Ciao Chow (www.ciaochowfoodtruck.com), a Woodland-based food truck that describes itself as a mix of Southeast Asian and Italian cuisine, that started serving in Yolo and Sacramento counties earlier this year.