La isla bonita

Illustration By Mark Stivers

Island Tacos

5088 Folsom Blvd.
Sacramento, CA 95819

When it comes to tacos, small is often better: Think tiny tortillas and minuscule taco trucks. Island Tacos isn’t as small as a truck, but it’s housed in just about the littlest freestanding building I’ve ever seen, a glorified hut at the corner of a parking lot on Folsom Boulevard. The flavor of the simple but delicious tacos, however, is in indirect proportion to the size of the place that produces them. I fell hard for the savory, beefy, tender lengua and the roasty-oily carnitas, not to mention the tart green tomatillo salsa that comes with both and lingers on the palate with a surprising, sneaky after-burn. Even better, the prices ($1.25 per taco) are just as small as the setting, meaning this is an island getaway you can visit over and over. 5088 Folsom Boulevard.