Forget the Colonel

Petey's Fried Chicken, South

Hotly anticipated South opened in December, with a menu of classic and modern Southern fare and former Revolution Wines executive chef Rachel Kelly in the kitchen. From the get-go, the restaurant's soul seemed to lay in its fried chicken. (Just look at the URL.) The recipe belongs to co-owner N'Gina Kavookjian's Mississippi family—in other words, homey, no-frills tradition. A crunchy, thick and salty crust gives way to sweet, tender insides, while a bed of kale sops up meaty drippings underneath. At $13, it's certainly an easier weeknight outing than the $20-plus fried chicken plates at other grid restaurants. But you'll probably want to order some cheesy sides with that. South, 2005 11th Street,