Black is back


Illustration by JONATHAN BUCK

As part of the cabbage family, kohlrabi means “black turnip,” which sounds less appetizing than it is. While it’s usually associated with long-cooked winter stews and roasts, kohlrabi makes a radishy, crunchy raw snack. I once saw a group of 6-year-olds inhale peeled and sliced kohlrabi with nothing more than a dip in plain vinaigrette. Choose the pale green bulbs for milder flavor; the purple ones pack a bit of spice. Kohlrabi are winding down for the season, so add them to a crudité plate with colorful carrots, snap peas and fennel while you still can.