Dinner and a show

Come for the girls, stay for the food. Manager Tara Cann and executive chef Jeff Probus invite us to take a gander at the Malibu chicken sandwich.

Come for the girls, stay for the food. Manager Tara Cann and executive chef Jeff Probus invite us to take a gander at the Malibu chicken sandwich.

Photo by ALLISON YOUNG

Wild Horse Saloon and Cabaret’s restaurant is open Sunday through Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.; and Thursday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

My friend Jared works for a company that used to have an office out by the brothels east of Reno along Interstate 80. He told me he used to go to the Wild Horse Saloon for lunch because there weren’t a lot of options in the area, and the food was really good. Jared is a bit of a lothario, so I figured he was full of shit and used the “location” of his work as a good chance to ogle girls during his lunch hour.

I decided to try the place for myself—for work reasons only, of course—and wasn’t surprised when both Jared and another friend, Brett, volunteered to check it out with me. Where’s this enthusiasm when I’m headed to non-bordello restaurants?

When we walked in to the large, dimly lit space, we were greeted by a taut young woman in some kind of skimpy zebra dress. The bartender then gave us a rousing greeting and told us to sit wherever, so we took a seat at a back table with wingback chairs and a prime view of the empty pole in the corner of the room. The Wild Horse has a lodge theme, with deer heads and animal skins on the wall, wood rafters and a large fireplace. The zebra dress fit right in. The space is masculine but comfortable.

The menu had typical grill items ranging from omelets to burgers. All the food was reasonably priced. I guess they want you to save your money for other activities. We started with some beers ($5 for draft) and settled in as one of the girls took to the pole. Wow, dinner and a show! For entrées, Jared went with the Buffalo chicken sandwich ($8) and Brett ordered the Malibu chicken sandwich ($9). I went with the carne asada tacos ($11) and was given a choice of “soft or hard,” so I went with hard. I can’t make this stuff up!

To be honest, I have no idea how much time passed between our order being placed and served as I was distracted by the dancing women. When the food arrived, I was pleasantly surprised by the way it all looked. The tacos were large and crammed full of carne asada that had a nice spice to it. The tortillas were lightly fried and had a slight crispness to them and the meat was piled with lettuce, tomatoes and onions. The rice and beans were a little dull, though, and lacked any real flavor. Jared’s Buffalo sandwich had a crispy chicken breast coated in a spicy sauce. Piled on top were fresh slices of lettuce, tomato and onion and the sandwich was served with a large portion of crispy fries.

Brett’s sandwich was the winner, with layers of ham, Swiss cheese and avocado piled on top of the chicken. Every bite seemed to have a different combination of flavors and the toppings were plentiful.

I had to apologize to Jared, which is something I try to never do, as he was right about the food here, though I still think he came for the girls.

And speaking of the girls, several ladies danced throughout our meal and chatted with us while we ate. They were all very friendly and never pushy, and we were even given a tour of the entire facility. The whole experience was a lot of fun. I never thought I would say this about a cathouse, but this is definitely a place I would go back to.