Love on a plate

It’s the kind of dish that when it’s laid out on a table, heads turn. As Warren Miller, head chef at Crush, presented the restaurant’s short-rib stroganoff on a recent afternoon, a curious gentleman walked over to find out what had been cooking.

For Miller, it was an illustrative moment: Presentation is all part of the experience.

“You eat with your eyes first,” he said. “It’s something where even walking by tables, people are going to see it, they’re going to notice it. … It’s going to get set down in front of you, your mouth’s going to water and you’re going to want that bite.”

For Crush’s short-rib stroganoff—what Miller calls an elevated twist on an old-school dish—Certified Angus Beef chuck flats are seared and braised for a couple of hours. Then, the cooking liquid is reduced and used to coat the beef, along with roasted mushrooms and onions, creating a savory glaze.

When it comes to the pasta, Crush prepares imported Italian fettuccine al dente, which is paired with a creamy alfredo sauce, fresh herbs, thyme, chives and parsley. It’s topped with fresh-shaved Pecorino Romano, and crispy baked Parmesan frico crisps, which, along with baked shallots, add a “little bit of crunch [and] pop of color.”

“It’s rich; it’s got a lot of flavor in it, a lot of body; it’s filling,” Miller said. “Because we source really nice ingredients, it is one more way to elevate those flavor profiles. … You get that slow-braised meat and then you get the nice sauce, the noodle, the little bit of crunch from the Parmesan and the shallot. It just kind of brings it all together.”

The flagship downtown eatery—on the second floor at Broadway and West Second streets—is known for its happy hour, pizza bar and romantic, date-night atmosphere. (It’s currently undergoing renovation to expand the patio and add restrooms on the second floor.)

As for the menu, Crush specializes in traditional and contemporary Italian dishes and uses fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Miller said when considering the restaurant’s sexiest dish, he chose this entree because it is one of Crush’s most popular offerings—plus, couples often share the plate. In addition, it is an approachable, reliable choice for those who want something familiar and comforting that’s more extravagant than a traditional home-cooked version.

Behind the preparation of every dish at Crush, whether it’s the stroganoff, chicken parmigiana or bolognese with handmade pappardelle, there’s an underlying passion to create an excellent meal that enhances the evening, Miller added. At 34 years old, Miller has worked in professional kitchens since he was 14, spending the last 10 years at Crush (two of those he worked at the Ukiah sister location). It’s rewarding for him to see and hear that customers are happy with what they’ve tasted and experienced.

“There’s tons of restaurants in Chico—on our level and on other levels—and people are choosing to come spend their time, spend their money and spend their night with you. So it’s kind of like, you want to put that love on the plate, the passion, and put everything you have into those dishes,” he said. “By giving [customers] something that’s comforting, that’s hearty, that’s beautiful, it’s a good way to keep their night going in that [positive] direction.”