Bäcker Bäck mountain

Illustration By Mark Stivers

In the wake of the low-carb craze, it’s nice that bread is acceptable again. I checked out the loaves at Bäcker Bäck, a German-style bake shop, and I immediately wanted to go home and make a sandwich. The offerings are divided between dark, dense, geometric all-rye loaves and fluffier, rounder wheat/rye blends. They slice up into nutty-flavored wedges of honest, earthy nourishment—equally nice toasted, maybe with cream cheese and jam at breakfast, or with ham and cheese at lunchtime. I was quickly converted to their strudels—a savory one with crisp, feathery crust and a gooey spinach-feta filling made a nice, light lunch—and a sweet-tart cherry streusel cake, not to mention breakfast (or snack) pastries. It all looked and tasted delicious, and the setting is attractively spare, too. If you like bread (and if you don’t, why are you still reading?), check it out. 2601 Marconi Avenue, (916) 487-2225, www.backerback.com.