Ramen at work

And it came to pass … in the time of the college student, the minimum wage worker, the late night snacker, and the I’m-on-a-budgeteer, the word was ramen, and the word was good. The stretchy, slurpy stuff—instant and otherwise, topped with everything from prawns to potato chips—comforts millions around the world and around the clock. It’s truly an American food staple.

Ramen—although it wasn’t called that, then—first appeared in Japan in 1910, when Chinese cooks at Tokyo’s Rairaiken restaurant created a signature dish comprising broth and Chinese noodles, which were yellower and more elastic than Japanese noodles. But in 1958, Nissin Foods introduced the first-ever packaged instant version of the dish. As its broth was chicken-flavored, the product was called Chikin Ramen. Nissin brought Top Ramen to the United States in 1970. These days, Nissin nets more than $3 billion a year. But ramen isn’t just instant, and that’s where local restaurant Momiji comes in. There, it’s a traditional noodle dish made by an accomplished chef.

Master chef Yoshi Onomura came to the states about three years ago, with his first stop in New Mexico before moving to Reno. His background as a restaurateur for 30 years in the Ginza district of Tokyo is notable, mastering French, German and Chinese cuisines. But his pride was in his noodle house and that passion and expertise is what he brings to Sparks.

The seven-item menu offers ramen from the north, central and south parts of Japan at extremely fair prices ($6.75-$7.50), with a vegetarian dish included, and the portions are generous. There are toppings ($.50-$2.50) like chashu pork, made by simmering pork belly with garlic, ginger, sake and shoyu (soy sauce); wakame seaweed, a sea vegetable—it has a subtly sweet flavor—boiled bamboo, Kimchi, boiled corn and green onions.

There are five rice bowls with smalls starting at $2.75 and regular with curry and Japanese fried chicken for $7.75. Side dishes include a special recipe fried chicken for $4.75, pot stickers for $4.75, Edamame $2.00 and a couple of salads $3-$4.75.

I had to try the pot stickers (Gyoza), and they were the best I’ve had in this town. Chef Onomura makes them when they are ordered. Filled with chicken, some vegetables and spices, they were light and airy, a bit salty with tones of garlic in a feather-light wrapper. Hot, soft, with a mouth watering flavor before I dipped them in a simple soy and rice vinegar sauce that made them more exciting and delicious in my mouth. Onomura offered a sample taste of his brown curry; savory, sweet, rich and a little bite at the finish, arigatou gozaimasu.

The miso ramen ($7.25) was next. Miso is a bean paste, a traditional Japanese seasoning produced by fermenting rice, barley and/or soybeans with salt. It was first used in Japan in 1965. I asked for a lot of spice ($.50 extra), and it was worth it. The miso was blended with oily pork broth to create a thick, slightly nutty sweet and very hearty soup with some heat. It was topped with slices of chashu pork, corn, green onions and sprouts. Plenty of noodles, and this broth had layers of flavors and texture so tasty and satisfying, I questioned my epicurean sanity about ever eating that instant stuff in those Styrofoam cups—but I was young and reckless.

Asahi and Sapporo beers ($3), green tea ($3) and soft drinks make up the libations. The eatery, when expanded, will hold 100 plus in a traditionally simple Japanese environment and décor with a nice, efficient staff. Momiji will open its new dining room mid-month with big, shared-seating areas, like those found in many Japanese restaurants. Gochiso sama—what a feast.