Say cheese

Cheese is the adult form of milk, no longer liquid but solid or semi-solid. It’s an ancient food whose origin, predating recorded history, is assumed to lie in the practice of transporting milk in bladders made of ruminants’ stomachs, with their inherent supply of rennet. There is no conclusive evidence indicating where cheese-making originated, either in Europe, Central Asia, the Middle East, or Sahara. Pliny the Elder, an early Roman historian, wrote that by the time ancient Rome came into being, foreign cheeses were transported to Rome to satisfy the elite’s tastes.

When Laura Conrow and Peter Burge decided to partner to start a cheese shop, the one thing they had in common was a passion and a desire, and they saw a need and an opportunity. Conrow came from an education environment, and Burge, the technical world. They both attended the San Francisco Cheese School, and 16 months later, came Wedge.

This is a not only a place of artisan cheeses, but also some very select meats and pâtés, though cheese is the focus. At any time, they will offer 100 varieties with wedges ranging from $8 to $45. A visit to their shop is a learning experience about what this food can bring to your life in a tasty, fun way. Every Saturday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., they have a sampling, including some select wines to marry with the fromage. Wine and cheese are good friends and never happier when they are together.

The cheeses are either farmstead or artisan. A farmstead cheese is made from milk produced on a specific farm and are often made in creameries located on the farm, but always at least quite nearby, since fresh milk is perishable.

Farmstead cheeses are thus made in relatively small batches and many steps are usually done by hand, such as turning the cheese, wiping the rinds, cutting, and packaging. Because farmstead cheeses are made in a specific place, they tend to develop unique flavor profiles based on the feed the animals receive, the climate in which they’re made, and the natural microbes in the air where they are aged.

Some “artisan” or “artisanal” cheeses are also farmstead cheeses, although some artisanal cheeses are made by cheese makers who buy milk from a few farms. Some larger creameries will make farmstead cheeses and other artisanal cheeses made with milk from several farms, using the same care and techniques for both.

Conrow had me taste four cheeses. Fleur Verte, a goat cheese—becoming very popular for chefs in upscale restaurants—had flavors of tarragon peppercorn, making it very creamy and slightly tart, with a subtle, bold finish. Quadrello di Bufala, from Italy, is a new buffalo-milk version of the beloved square cheese from Lombardy, high in fat content and protein—creamy and delicious.

From Point Reyes in northern California comes a Basque cheese, Baserri, from sheep’s milk. It was salty and dry. I could see it with a cold beer. Lastly, MouCo ColoRouge from Colorado is a natural rind cheese that is reddish-orange in color with a slight white finish. Like jazz, the flavor changes as it ages: Soft and creamy with mild buttery overtones give way to complex spiciness.

By thirds, their cheeses come from the West Coast, mid-American and Europe. They offer fresh-made sandwiches ($8), have some hand-picked wines and soft drinks. It’s family friendly and a true adventure for your palate. I grew up in the big city with neighborhoods that were your world, little family-run businesses that provided all our necessities. Wedge gives me that feel in Midtown—a good feeling.