Old school balls

Meatballs are hot. They're showing up on menus all over town, from pizza places to Turkish bistros. But for an old-school comfort classic, you've got to try the meatball sandwich ($6.75) from the Italian Importing Company. The place is so vintage, it's practically a time warp, and the meatballs are traditionally made. First, they line a yeasty roll with provolone so the sauce doesn't sog the bun, then they fill it with hefty, fine-textured meatballs and gravy (a.k.a. marinara). The finishing touch: a little Parmesan. It's not so big that it'd kill you to eat the whole thing, so mangia! 1827 J Street; (916) 442-6678.