Whole lotta love

Roll playing: California and crystal spring rolls at Sushi Lover.

Roll playing: California and crystal spring rolls at Sushi Lover.

Photo by lauren randolph

Sushi Lover

400 W. Fifth St.
Reno, NV 89503

"’Twas the night before the election, and all through the house …

No one was making dinner—just my husband getting soused.”

What do you do on election eve when you’re too nervous about the polls and the pundits to keep your mind on cooking? Exactly: You go out for dinner. So I dragged my ne’er-do-well husband out to try Sushi Lover. The establishment is so new you can’t even find it on Yahoo maps, forcing us to phone and get the location from a server whose first language was not English, but we were glad we could communicate in the end. This place is great.

We’re always a bit anxious when we enter a restaurant to find we’re the only customers there, but given the economy and the fact it was a rainy Monday night before the general election, we stayed open-minded. And I’m so glad we did. As hole-in-the-wall places go, you cannot beat Sushi Lover for environs. The location is great; it’s just off the main Virginia drag and is close enough to the UNR campus that merely quasi-ambitious college students could make the occasional sojourn there. Everything is spotless—the kitchen, the counters, the floors, and both bathrooms. A nifty clock employing various fish specimens as hour indicators adorns the wall above the kitchen, and the walls practically vibrate with fresh color.

The service was spectacular. Granted we were the only ones there at the moment and were probably destined for royal treatment, but whatever. We sat at the bar and carried on a stimulating conversation with the cook, while our server took our various drink and food orders. We were promptly provided the obligatory fresh ginger and wasabi, those savored accoutrements that make main courses zing. My man was a traditionalist and got a small pitcher of sake ($6.95); I stayed conservative with Corona (I know, I know). The sake was OK, and the Corona tasted like Corona, but as soon as drinks were poured they were ready to take our entrée orders, whereupon I requested the New York, which is spicy tuna, green onions and avocados ($6.25 for a long roll). My husband went for the Godzilla—deep fried roll and spicy sauce—with yellow tail ($7.50). For good measure, we also ordered a tempura veggie roll ($4.50) and my usual treat: two pieces of octopus ($3.95). All were served within moments and without regret on our part. They were delicious. The fish was fresh and came apart in my mouth as it should: slowly, delectably.

My husband devoured Godzilla like Rodan at the beginning of a Japanese monster movie, while I nibbled at my octopus and tuna, not wanting it to end. I supplemented my entrée with two pieces of eel ($4.25), which, as it turned out, was the best thing I ate all night, and that is definitely saying something.

We were so delighted by our experience that we doubled the usual tip before leaving and dashed home to watch the Saturday Night Live Monday night election special. Moments after we got home, my husband said, “That was so good, I think I could have done the all-you-can-eat,” which is served daily from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for $15.95 and evenings from 3 p.m.-9 p.m. for $20.95. An excellent price for that much delicious sushi. Next time we will.

Sushi Lover is an excellent new restaurant that deserves our business and support. It’s a family owned establishment that very obviously prides itself on excellent food and service. Sushi Lover has my endorsement for anyone electing to do Sushi any time soon.

I’m Sharon Black, and I approve this review.