What’s for dinner

Kevin Laxalt prepares the Rustler Burger, with mushrooms, Swiss cheese, red onion, pickles, tomato, and lettuce.

Kevin Laxalt prepares the Rustler Burger, with mushrooms, Swiss cheese, red onion, pickles, tomato, and lettuce.

Photo By Allison Young

Beefy's is open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

When one thinks of Midtown, terms like “modern” or “hipster” might come to mind, but Beefy’s, which took over the old Landrum’s on Virginia Street about six months ago, is taking it old-school by reviving the diner and adding some country flavor. My friend Tim and I headed out for some burgers and were welcomed merrily by the staff.

Inside is very tiny but set up well, with mostly counter area for seating. The décor is a little bit country and a little bit cow and bull. (Yeah, I made an Osmonds joke, because I like to keep things relevant.) A set of actual longhorns hangs on the wall alongside lassos and other ranch type items. The feel is kitschy without being over the top and is oddly comforting. Tim and I sat down on some stools and looked over the menus. In addition to burgers, Beefy’s offers sandwiches, salads and hot dogs, not to mention ice cream. But forget all that, you name the place Beefy’s, I’m trying your burgers.

Beefy’s offers a variety of different toppings for hamburgers including avocado, jalapeños, grilled pineapple, sundried tomato pesto and chilies to name a few. You have options, but these are sound, basic burgers, nothing gimmicky. I went with the Rustler ($6.50), which is a burger topped with Swiss cheese and grilled mushrooms, and I added a side of onion rings ($3.50). Tim went with the Stetson ($6.50), which came topped with bacon and blue cheese and added a side of fries ($2.75). Smelling the food cooking was tough so Tim decided to order a chocolate milkshake ($4.50) to tide him over. The milkshake, made in front of us in an industrial milkshake machine, arrived creamy and chocolaty. I asked for a “sip” and took a long pull when he turned away. It took a lot not to order my own shake, but with the burger and onion rings coming, I decided to refrain. No, just kidding, I reasoned that I could get one to go.

When our burgers arrived, I was happy to see lots of Swiss and mushrooms piled on my burger. All of Beefy’s burgers come with lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions and mayo, but they were glad to accommodate some changes Tim requested. The rolls are soft and delicious. I mean, normally, who cares about the bun, but these are really good. Apparently, the buns are fresh baked daily just for them. The meat itself was tasty and fresh as were all the ingredients on the burger. Tim’s Stetson burger was piled high with smoky bacon that was amazing with the blue cheese.

Now the onion rings were good but the fries were so fantastic, we left the onion rings a bit neglected. The fries are hand cut, lightly salted and still had the skins on. Dip these bad boys in the chocolate shake, and you’ve got one happy fat kid—me—on your hands. Beefy’s also has wine and beer, which is nice, because I love a beer and a burger.

The staff at Beefy’s is incredible. The two ladies were beyond friendly and just made us feel so comfortable. They really cared that we enjoyed our food but were never intrusive.

Overall, the food here is solid. Beefy’s uses fresh ingredients and knows how to cook them. The diner atmosphere is fun, and everything about it makes you feel welcome. The Midtown surge is exciting, and Beefy’s is a great addition to the neighborhood, especially when you’re craving a good, old-fashioned burger with some home-style hospitality.