Phoenix rising

Once upon a time there was a little Mexican restaurant that did well for several years, overcoming its location in a run-down strip mall next to a freeway ramp. Then the property was sold and the building turned into yet another empty dirt lot. Forced relocation can kill even a thriving business. Mari Chuy’s Mexican Kitchen has sprung phoenix-like from another formerly-vacant dirt lot, and man, is it on fire.

Located in the heart of Midtown, the new restaurant Mari and Chuy Gutierrez have created is very different from that which is now dust. Paired with hipster-approved architecture and design—sparse decoration, roll-up “garage doors” that open to patio dining, and a somehow classic-yet-modern color palette—is a stripped-down menu that I think could be the smartest decision made by this family of seasoned restaurateurs.

Gone is the 100 item list of a la carte fare and combo platters typical of Mexican-American cuisine, replaced by a single page presentation of dinner categories. Appetizers, soups, salads, desserts, and separate sections of pork, beef, seafood and vegetarian specialties are listed, each with five or fewer dishes. Even more brief is the lunch menu on the flip side. This style of service indicates a chef who has chosen to perfect and focus on each dish until it’s exactly how he wants it. He’s selected dishes he most wants to share with his guests.

Right from the start, my wife and I were made welcome by Chuy and his staff, and the service throughout our meal was top notch. Even the water got special treatment, with slices of lemon and cucumber lending an extra zing of refreshment on a summer evening. My wife loved her Mango Margarita ($8), despite a dash of buyer’s remorse upon discovering a cilantro version on the specials board. She and Chuy apparently share the same affection for that pungent herb.

With drinks came complimentary chips and a delicious pico de gallo. We prefer light, thin chips served warm. Though fresh and warm, these were pretty thick. However, the queso fundido con chorizo appetizer ($6) would be impossible to scoop up with a less-stout bit of fried tortilla, so I’m guessing those chips were designed with that in mind. Served on a small cast iron skillet, this mix of melted cheese and homemade pork sausage is stupid good, with a touch of cinnamon sending it over the top. Brilliant. We also enjoyed the aguacate relleno con camarones starter ($7), featuring half an avocado overflowing with “special secret shrimp salad” on a bed of romaine lettuce.

For entrees, my wife ordered tacos de pescado ($13) and I chose the carnitas ($15). Both were served with rice and (whole) beans, artfully presented with a leaf of romaine, slice of tomato, chunk of fresh cheese, radish floret, and lime wedges for the fish. All garnishes were fresh, the beans and rice tasty, and the homemade flour and corn tortillas above-par. The texture of the fish was a bit soft, and I found the pork carnitas to be fattier, larger pieces than I normally expect. Aside from this, we both enjoyed the flavors of each dish, and the portions were quite decent for the money.

Bellies full, we shared the homemade caramel flan ($4). With a texture more akin to cheesecake than custard and great flavor, this dessert could convert non-fans of the traditional treat. The inclusion of a large, sliced strawberry on the side and a splash of coffee liqueur added tableside by Chuy himself sealed the deal. Coming and going, this chef and his crew demonstrate the meaning of hospitality.