Last action gyro

“Condiments are extra … anything extra will cost extra.”

This redundant rule is at the top of the menu at Niko’s Greek Kitchen. While the proclamation is peculiar, my husband and I still agreed that Niko’s offers a chance to enjoy some quality ethnic-and-then-some local cuisine.

I am still semi-new to Reno, was never more than vaguely aware of West Street Market, and knew nothing of Niko’s Greek Kitchen, opened by owner-manager Niko Theologitis approximately five months ago.

We came to try the food, of course, but the setup at West Street Market is extremely cool and worth an excursion in any event. Niko’s occupies the tiniest niche for kitchen and cashier but enjoys what amounts to cafeteria space with tables and chairs in the large conjoining area between it and Se7en, a bar and teahouse. For the effort of walking 30 feet you can leave the high ceiling and bright lights of a convenient deli for dark, romantic ambiance and local folk music. Alternately, you can sample the offerings of the West Street Wine bar, also adjacent. Patrons of both neighboring establishments were taking advantage of this. As we made our selections, we saw Theologitis hustling off to-go orders to customers of both.

We decided to try all the sides, not just for the sake of professional thoroughness but also in light of the inviting prices. We had pita and hummus ($3.99), stuffed grape leaf dolmades ($3.99), spinach pie spanakopita ($3.99), and feta cheese pie tiropita ($3.99). We also got the fries ($2) just to see if they were anything special, but found out they were superfluous anyway because our veggie gyro ($5.99)—“Jah-row,” as one customer loitering at the counter insisted on pronouncing it—came with fries on the side.

Everything was great except the middling fries and the slightly leathery pita. The hummus had the perfect balance of lemon and tahini—anyone who likes hummus knows this is not a gimme. The stuffed grape leaves had just the right tang and what tasted like a splash of mint. The salad and dressing in the gyro were perfectly fresh. The pies were, simply put, the bomb. My culturally underprivileged husband had never actually had feta cheese pie before, but I have, and Niko’s ranks quite high, especially considering the price.

Carnivores will of course want to try the chicken gyro ($5.99) or the chicken souvlaki ($7.49). We regret not trying the Greek salad ($5.99), which also has a gyro meat variation ($7.99). We also neglected and thus are unable to report on the quality of the baklava ($3), a standard delicacy with Mediterranean cuisine. By that time, we were just too full.

Cleverly, Niko also offers some standard American-style pub grub, such as mozzarella sticks ($5.99) and chicken wings ($7.99). You can even stay put and slake a thirst with a Greek beer ($3.50).

When we first arrived at Niko’s, my skinflint husband originally and allegedly ordered the sundry items for the purpose of hoarding some for later, but we ended up devouring them all. I can truthfully say that on more than one occasion since our visit, when time to make dinner is short and the desire for quality eats on the cheap seems tempting, one or both of us has said, “Why don’t we just go to Niko’s?”

Even where extras are extra, it’s still a great deal.