Killer appetizer

Antipasti are the original appetizers, Italy’s answer to French hors d’oeuvre. Traditionally, antipasto—or plural, antipasti—is a combination of various small foods served before the meal. Foods meant to stimulate the appetite and taste buds without filling the stomach. Antipasto literally means “before the pasta.”

The concept of antipasto is one that recalls an earlier time, when big meals were unhurried and lasted for hours. Most Americans tend not to know how to enjoy food. Rather, we eat out of habit and in as short a time as possible.

You wouldn’t think of antipasti ($26) unless you were in the mood to take your time and enjoy, and that’s the approach at Briscola—a singular eatery created by celebrity chef Charlie Palmer, known for his steaks—in the Grand Sierra Resort. This amazing spread could easily be considered a light meal unto itself, and with the wine, it a mangiare to remember.

Four little divots in the plate are filled with a myriad of flavors and textures designed to complement this grande starter. Greek olives are marinated in a sautéed preparation of garlic, shallots, chili flakes, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme and lemon zest. The infused flavors are a first bite of this Vesuvian experience and are a bit salty, with an ever-so-slight lift, which starts the mouth watering for more. Next comes the red bell peppers—grilled, skinned, Julienned, and soaked in a bath of bay leaves, capers, honey, red wine vinegar and chopped parsley—robust with a sweet-tart hit.

Then there’s the pickled mushroom in shallots, garlic, basil and white wine vinegar—chewy with a tart, minty, slightly clove-spice taste. And for something sweet, a black raisin jam, with hints of current, port wine, sugar and cinnamon, keeps the flavor-rama going. These are all toppers for the meats and cheese.

There are a couple of culinary wizards orchestrating this Italian tribute: executive chef David Holman, a Culinary Institue of America graduate and 10-year Palmer associate, and newbie Justin Johnson, the sous chef. Menu prices for pastas, fish and meats range from $14-$34.

Chef Holman steps in front of a Ferrari-red, hand-driven meat slicer, and cranks out paper-thin slices of San Daniele prosciutto, Molinari coppa and salami, Boccalone mortadella and their own in-house cured duck prosciutto. The names in front of these meats identify some of the most famous Italian suppliers of quality in the world. The plata is finished off with a generous piece of Buffalo mozzarella.

The delicate, individual flavors of these meats were astounding when married with the toppers on a crostini. It would take a volume to do the tastes justice so I’ll talk about the house-made duck prosciutto. A little black pepper and coriander, giving it a spicy, somewhat nutty and citrus flavor, with a hint of lemon zest—it’s a wower.

Chef Johnson sprung a crispy Burrata ($14) on me with beautiful vine-ripened tomatoes. (They use heirlooms in-season.) This Buffalo mozzarella and mascarpone ball is crusted and quick fried, served hot, and drizzled with a little aged balsamic and olive oil. It’s a meal. What a flavor explosion, the hot, crusted cheeses with the tomatoes—mama mia!

Reasonable wine selection by-the-glass ($9-$14); I chose the Renato Ratti Barbera d’Alba ($12) from Piedmont in northwest Italy. Bright, dark red. Crushed black cherry, blackberry and licorice on the nose. Nicely delineated, firmly built Barbera with strong acidity giving cut to the flavors of crushed dark fruits, violet and bitter chocolate, finishes with excellent grip. In today’s world, you need to make time for life—begin with antipasti.