Tasty tongue

Lengua crispy tacos, Chita’s Mexican Grill

Outside Chita’s Mexican Grill, nail guns cough as four-story condos rise next to train tracks. Inside, the cozy taqueria serves classic grub at decent prices, such as crispy tacos ($2.95) made with freshly fried shells, pico de gallo and my favorite Mexican meat, lengua—melt-in-your-mouth cubes of marinated cow tongue that I, a guilt-ridden carnivore, like to tell myself prevents waste from an already doomed animal. Still, if eating tongue turns your tummy, hot churros ($2.95) are another specialty of the decade-old Midtown spot that’s a comforting constant amid such change. 2019 Q Street, (916) 930-0951, http://chitasmexicangrill.com.