On a roll

On a brisk, sunny November day, my wife and our 5-year-old niece met with another 5-year-old and her sushi-loving mommy. There was a lot more giggling involved than I’m used to, so I skipped my usual hot sake. Someone had to stay levelheaded for this tea party.

JJ Sushi is a best-kept secret among its fans, yet largely unknown to those who don’t live nearby. The menu is all about sushi, with just a handful of entrees available for those who don’t dig on raw fish. We ordered Teriyaki Chicken for the girls ($9.95, served with steamed rice and tempura-fried veggies), and All You Can Eat Sushi ($16.95) for the adults. There is an option for kids under 12 to enjoy AYCE sushi ($10.95), but these girls are yet a bit young for that. The staff were very accommodating and pleasant with the girls, which made us all feel welcome.

Warm, salted edamame (steamed soybean pods) and miso soup began the appetizer course, followed by yakiton, a wonton wrapper stuffed with cream cheese and kani (sticks of processed white fish formed and flavored to approximate crab). The result is deep fried, diagonally sliced in half, dressed with unagi sauce and deliciously bad for you. Next up was Tempura Jalapeno, featuring a fresh chili fried in tempura batter stuffed with kani and cream cheese. The jalapeño was still a bit crunchy and unlike a pub popper, which isn’t a bad thing. Mussels were ordered but never arrived. This happens at enough sushi bars that I hardly noticed (apparently mussels have to cross through the Bermuda Triangle to reach Reno).

The simplicity of single-bite nigiri is my favorite sushi form, and its preparation is a make-or-break issue. If there’s too much rice, the delicate flavors of the fish are lost. If the portions are cut too large, it makes a morsel into an ordeal. JJ Sushi has a nice fish-to-rice ratio, perfect portions, and the flavors are very fresh. Seared tuna, yellowtail, smoked salmon, red snapper, octopus, and freshwater eel disappeared fast. JJ’s versions of Upside Down Shrimp (traditional and tempura), Donald Duck (salmon, avocado, crab, unagi and/or sriracha sauces) and Mickey Mouse (seared tuna, avocado, crab, unagi and/or sriracha sauces) were spot-on and required another round.

Perhaps as an offset to all the raw nigiri, we ended up with mostly cooked rolls. The Speeding roll (cream cheese, jalapeño, spicy crab, spicy mayo, salmon) wasn’t very subtle, all capsaicin heat, tempura, and not much seafood flavor to speak of. The California Deluxe (avocado, cucumber, crab, flying fish roe) and R&B (cucumber, spicy crab, shrimp, tuna, avocado) were totally tasty, followed by the Sweet Talk (cream cheese, green apple, crab, shrimp, soy paper wrap). After a couple bites, the Sweet Talk went back. We just didn’t love it, and though we were willing to pay a la carte, the house didn’t charge extra. One more noticeable nod toward better-than-average service.

I ordered a pair of hand rolls, the Pink Lady (spicy crab, crystal shrimp, crab) and Caterpillar (crab, fresh water eel, cucumber, avocado). The contents were great, but the nori wrapper was moist and chewy. Nori is typically bone dry, so it either sat too long after being rolled or the chef had wet hands while rolling. Being that everything else was served with a high level of skill, I’m betting on the loitering-roll theory. Next time I’ll leave hand rolls for when I’m sitting at the bar and they’re delivered to me fresh from the chef.

Our excursion ended with ice cream, which both girls (and Uncle Todd) enjoyed with enthusiasm. Despite a couple missteps, everyone had a grand ol’ time. Looking for family-friendly yet decent-quality sushi? JJ Sushi makes the grade.